... this is how your film could look like:
I prepare only very small quantities.
Here are some film examples! Without guarantee that your film will come out the same because depending on age, storage and exposure the results can be very different!
|This is how the freshly developed Kodachrome K40 looks like digitized (no way removing the orange layer during processing)||The digitally inverted Kodachrome K40 film becomes a positive!||A Kodachrome K40 that was filmed over 30 years ago and since then slept in the camera! It lost contrasts but still ... the images can be saved! (Thank you Claus!)||A Kodachrome K40 that was filmed over 40 years ago – the sound was saved!|
|A Kodak Ektachrome from the early 80es. I develop them at lower temperature (23° instead of 38°) to avoid colour layer detachments. Here's a quite psychedelic example (Thank you Jesse!) with weird white streaks– probably because of changes of temperature / condensation over the decades!|
|A Kodachrome K II is not easy to develop. Too old, fogged. But I was lucky this time (after 3 failures with transparent results): I overexposed the film by about 3 steps and developed it in Caffenol. And I got images! Very low contrasted, very foggy. But images at least!!
A good developer for these old films is A71: GDR hardchore hydroquinone developer! I have it!
|An old Agfa film (blue / white box) coming out faded azure-pink-ish!||An old Agfa film (blue / white box) coming out faded azure-ish! My film “Alvarado / Sunset” on Vimeo.||Another old Agfa film (blue / white box), all colors are there but quite pale! (Marius' film!)||Another old Agfa film (blue / white box), turned out neon greenish ... you really never know!|
|These red-blue Agfas mostly lead to quite good results. But always very blue toned. Sometimes there’s nothing else, just a bright blue and hardly any image. (Thank you Marius!)||A Porst film. Rather low in contrast and very blue-greenish. (Thank you Max!)|
|Even older Agfa films (the famous “rhombus or Mondrian Agfas”!)! Contrasts and colours fade or disappear completely, but sometimes they come out very violet or pastel. I develop them at low 23° temperature, warmer would be deadly. (Thank you Gaby, Inga and Ulrike!)|
|Revue Superchrome 40: Red-white (1986 to 1992), red-green (until 1986), and there’s a grey version, too. As far as I know they used old Agfa material. That's why the result is quite similar! Mostly very greenish-blueish. (Thank you Daiga!)|
|Old ORWO Films from the GDR, no matter if Super 8 or Double-Super 8, lose colour and contrast or even become transparent, sometimes the gelatin breaks into worm-like patterns - very funky (Thank you Kitty!).
You actually need original ORWO chemistry: ORWO C-9165 ... which rarely appears on Ebay. Some medium good results with low temperature E6. The result is always very green.
|Interesting facts about Agfa and Revue: There are Agfachrome and Agfa Moviechrome and Revuechrome and Revue Superchrome! The differences are massive! Agfachrome is rarely satisfactory, mostly weak in contrast and color … and Revuechrome is almost undevelopable. Agfa Moviechrome and Revue Superchrome have good chances in "modern" E6-Chemie. But they always come out very blue/greenish.|
|Other formats: 35mm films, special formats ... such as Kodachrome 64 and 200 and 25: black and white negative developing is possible, mostly pretty crisp results!
Agfacolor CNS: color negative film… different results depending on storage.
Some of these films are 50 years old or older! I try to develop them, but the chances of something useful coming out are not that great. I've had all sorts of results: mushy colors, amazing pastel colors, and absolutely nothing. High risk!!!!
Kodachrome 64 negative / digitally inverted to positive
Left: 35 mm film, right: pocket film