... this is how your film could look like:
I prepare only very small quantities.
Here are some film examples! Without guarantee that your film will come out the same because depending on age, storage and exposure the results can be very different!
|This is how the freshly developed Kodachrome K40 looks like digitized (no way removing the orange layer during processing)||The digitally inverted Kodachrome K40 film becomes a positive!||A Kodachrome K40 that was filmed over 30 years ago and since then slept in the camera! It lost contrasts but still ... the images can be saved! (Thank you Claus!)|
|A Kodak Ektachrome from the early 80es. I develop them at lower temperature (30° instead of 38°) to avoid colour layer detachments. Here's a quite psychedelic example (Thank you Jesse!) with weird white streaks– probably because of changes of temperature / condensation over the decades!|
|A Kodachrome K II is almost impossible to develop. Too old. But I was lucky this time (after 3 failures with transparent results): I overexposed the film by about 3 steps and developed it in Caffenol. And I got images! Very low contrasted, very foggy. But images at least!!|
|An old Agfa film (blue / white box) coming out faded azure-pink-ish!||An old Agfa film (blue / white box) coming out faded azure-ish! My film “Alvarado / Sunset” on Vimeo.||Another old Agfa film (blue / white box), all colors are there but quite pale! (Marius' film!)||Another old Agfa film (blue / white box), turned out neon greenish ... you really never know!|
|These red-blue Agfas mostly lead to quite good results. But always very blue toned. Sometimes there’s nothing else, just a bright blue and hardly any image. (Thank you Marius!)||A Porst film. Rather low in contrast and very blue-greenish. (Thank you Max!)|
|Even older Agfa films (the famous “rhombus or Mondrian Agfas”!)! Contrasts and colours fade or disappear completely, but sometimes they come out very violet or pastel. I develop them at low 23° temperature, warmer would be deadly. (Thank you Gaby, Inga and Ulrike!)|
|Revue Superchrome 40: Red-white (1986 to 1992), red-green (until 1986), and there’s a grey version, too. As far as I know they used old Agfa material. That's why the result is quite similar! Mostly very greenish-blueish. (Thank you Daiga!)|
|Old ORWO Films from the GDR, no matter if Super 8 or Double-Super 8, lose colour and contrast or even become transparent, sometimes the gelatin breaks into worm-like patterns - very funky (Thank you Kitty!).
Meanwhile, I hardly develop them anymore - the results are usually very unsatisfactory. You really need original ORWO chemistry: ORWO C-9165 ... which sometimes appears on Ebay. In Russia, there is a replica, I am just about to try it out.
|Interesting facts about Agfa and Revue: There are Agfachrome and Agfa Moviechrome and Revuechrome and Revue Superchrome! The differences are massive! Agfachrome and Revuechrome are almost undevelopable, the results mostly terrible, actually you can only develop them in the original chemistry (Agfa A-41, which corresponds to ORWO C-9165 and only rarely appears on Ebay). Just like all ORWO films. Agfa Moviechrome and Revue Superchrome have good chances in "modern" E6-Chemie. But they always come out very blue/greenish.|
|Other formats: 35mm films, special formats ... such as Kodachrome 64: black and white negative developing is possible, mostly pretty crisp results!
Agfacolor CNS: color negative film… different results depending on storage.
Some of these films are 50 years old or older! I try to develop them, but the chances of something useful coming out are not that great. I've had all sorts of results: mushy colors, amazing pastel colors, and absolutely nothing. High risk!!!!
Kodachrome 64 negative / digitally inverted to positive
Left: 35 mm film, right: pocket film