Developing – here we go:
     
         
             

What is remjet?

… an anti-halation layer, black-pigmented, non-gelatin, on the back of the film base that prevents bright light from reflecting off the clear base of the film and passing back through the negative to double-expose the crystals and create halos of light around bright spots.

Where can I get a Russian tank?

I was lucky, I bought one of the last ones in the GDR when it sold out … try ebay, they are being sold at about 150 €.

Self processing?

It's quite extravagant and it goes as well without a Russian tank. Try it in buckets ...
You can also build a developing tank from drain pipes!
Here is some great building instructions by Friedemann Wachsmuth!

 

 

All photos on this site
© www.berndbrundert.de
               
The developer and the Russian tank!   Fresh chemicals for every film.   The Russian tank – made in Ukraine.   The right temperature is one of the most important things!   The spiral   Get off, remjet layer!
     

I'm not a lab working with processing machines, I'm a single human working with my Russian tank, also called Lomo tank!

For over 20 years I've developed Super 8 films, black and white and color. Born out of necessity (there was no other who develops my films, so I had to learn how to do it myself), and gradually grown fond of it - now I understand the whole process more and more and can manipulate the result a little (change of temperature and duration).

Black & white negative
Clamp and wind the 15 meter long film in the spiral reel in complete darkness. Cover it with the lid, turn light on again.
First Developer - water - fix - final water
Adonal (Ex-Rodinal) – best developer, tested, and found to be universal. Must be heated to exactly 20°.
You can develop all films, even color, to black and white negative.
Kodachrome K40 has a nasty greasy black remjet layer, which must be rubbed carefully by hand with a soft cloth after developing.

Color reversal (positive)
Clamp and wind the 15 meter long film in the spiral reel in complete darkness. Cover it with the lid, turn light on again.
First Developer - water - color developer - water - bleach-fixing - final water
E6 Tetenal developing kit – The baths need to be heated to exactly 38°. Except ORWO that doesn't tolerate such a high temperature and prefers to be bathed at 30° (at longer development time).

Kodachrome can NOT be developed in E6. All other color reversal films YES.

I develop each film with fresh developer and fixer, with great sensitivity and a big heart!